Vilnius Old Town skyline with red rooftops and church spires
Lithuania · Baltic road trip

Vilnius, Trakai & the Curonian Spit

Baroque Old Town spires, a lakeside island castle, interwar Kaunas, and Europe's tallest shifting sand dunes — a week that goes from UNESCO cobblestones to windswept coast.

7 nights / 8 days
2 adults
~€2,300 total for two
Car? Yes — for the western leg

1At a glance

Everything you need to decide if this is the trip, before you read all eight days.

Best season
Late May or early September. Long daylight, mild 16–22°C days, Old Town without July crowds, and the Curonian Spit dunes still warm enough to walk barefoot.
Why this trip
Lithuania packs three distinct trip types into one week: a Baroque UNESCO capital, a Bauhaus-era second city, and a Baltic dune coast that looks like the Sahara washed up in Scandinavia.
Need a car?
Yes, but only from Kaunas onward. Vilnius–Kaunas has an easy hourly train, so skip the car for the first four days. Pick one up in Kaunas for Klaipėda, the Smiltynė car ferry, and the Curonian Spit — there is no useful public transport once you're on the dunes, and the drive back to Vilnius airport needs one too.
Currency & pace
Euro (€). Comfortable pace: 3 nights Vilnius, 1 night Kaunas, 2 nights Nida, 1 night back in Vilnius before the flight home.
CategoryCost for twoNotes
Flights (CPH↔VNO)€400SAS direct, economy, booked ~2 months out
Hotels (7 nights)€7503–4★ boutique, Vilnius / Kaunas / Nida
Car hire + fuel + ferry€2804 days, Kaunas pickup → Vilnius airport drop-off
Food (all meals + 1 splurge)€740Casual lunches, hearty dinners, one Michelin tasting menu
Activities & entries€140Castles, museums, dune park fee
Total~€2,310~€1,155 per person

2Getting there & around

Fly nonstop, train to Kaunas, then rent wheels for the coast.

CPH → Vilnius flight options

SAS direct Best

~€180–220 pp round trip

Nonstop, 1h30m each way, up to 18 flights/week. Worth the small premium — no connection, no lost half-day.

airBaltic via Riga

~€110–160 pp round trip

One-stop, ~4–5h total with a short RIX layover. Reliable budget fallback if SAS fares spike.

LOT via Warsaw

~€120–170 pp round trip

One-stop via WAW, similar total time to airBaltic. Good if flight times fit better around a Star Alliance itinerary.

Curiosity: Ryanair doesn't fly CPH–Vilnius, but does fly CPH direct into Kaunas (KUN) — a genuine open-jaw option if you'd rather start the trip on the coast side and end in Vilnius. This itinerary keeps it simple and flies both ways through Vilnius.

Getting around

Vilnius ↔ Kaunas: LTG Link trains run roughly hourly, 1h–1h40m, from about €10 second class. No car needed — Old Town to Old Town is easier by rail than by road.

Kaunas → Klaipėda → Curonian Spit: here a hire car earns its keep. Kaunas–Klaipėda is a straight 2h drive; Klaipėda to the Spit requires the Smiltynė car ferry (about every 20–30 min in season, ~€23 return for a car with driver and passengers), since there's no bridge — the Spit is only reachable by ferry or from the Kaliningrad (Russian) side, which this trip doesn't cross into. Once on the Spit, driving down to Nida takes ~45 minutes and passes the Neringa National Park vehicle checkpoint (local environmental fee applies, collected at the Alksnynė control post).

Car hire: pick up a compact/mid-size in Kaunas (Sixt, Europcar, Green Motion all operate there) for ~€35–45/day including basic insurance, and drop it at Vilnius Airport on the way to the flight home. Lithuania drives on the right — identical to Denmark, no adjustment needed. Roads are good, tolls are minimal, fuel runs slightly cheaper than in Denmark.

3Day by day

Vilnius (3 nights) → Kaunas (1 night) → Nida / Curonian Spit (2 nights) → Vilnius (1 night) → fly home.

Day 1 — ArrivalBase: Vilnius
Vilnius Cathedral and bell tower on Cathedral Square Gediminas Tower on the hill above Vilnius

Morning

Fly SAS direct CPH→VNO (e.g. 08:00–10:30). Bolt taxi into the Old Town (~15 min, ~€15 — skip the unofficial taxi touts at arrivals). Drop bags at the hotel, coffee to reset.

Afternoon

Walk Cathedral Square, go inside the white neoclassical Vilnius Cathedral, then ride the funicular up to Gediminas' Tower for the red-roof panorama over Old Town — the single best orientation view in the city.

Evening

Wander down Pilies gatvė, the Old Town's main artery, past amber shops and street musicians, before dinner.

Lunch
Airport / light
Keep it simple after landing — a bakery or hotel café.
Dinner
Etno Dvaras (Old Town) — €€
Traditional Lithuanian chain done well: cepelinai (potato dumplings with meat filling and bacon-sour cream sauce), draft kvass, cellar-tavern atmosphere.
Airport → Old Town: 15 min by taxi/Bolt, or bus 88/2G (~30 min, €1).
Day 2 — Old Town & UžupisBase: Vilnius
Užupis riverside district with its footbridge over the Vilnia river

Morning

Deeper Old Town loop: St. Anne's Church (the Gothic brick facade Napoleon reportedly wanted to carry home), Vilnius University's historic courtyards, and the secondhand-book charm of Literatų gatvė, where dozens of small artworks honour Lithuanian writers.

Afternoon

Cross the footbridge into Užupis, Vilnius's self-declared "independent republic" — read the tongue-in-cheek 41-article constitution posted on the wall (mirrors in multiple languages), browse artist studios, photograph the bronze Užupis Angel.

Evening

Back across the river for the trip's one true splurge — book ahead.

Lunch
Užupis Republic Presidential Café "Suškė" — €€
Tucked on Paupio street, bohemian Eastern-European menu, easy lunch in the middle of the Užupis wander.
Dinner — the splurge
Nineteen18 — €€€€
Michelin-starred, 10-course seasonal tasting menu reworking Baltic ingredients (wild mushroom, Curonian Lagoon fish, foraged herbs) in a 42-seat dining room. Named for 1918, the year of Lithuanian independence. Book 2–3 weeks ahead.
Day 3 — Trakai day tripBase: Vilnius
Trakai Island Castle on Lake Galvė with its red-brick towers

Morning

Bus from Vilnius bus station to Trakai (~35 min, ~€2, departs every 30–60 min — no car needed). Walk the lakeside causeway out to Trakai Island Castle, the red-brick 14th-century fortress on Lake Galvė, restored as the History Museum with medieval armor and coin collections.

Afternoon

Rent a pedalo or take a short boat ride on the lake for the classic castle-from-the-water photo. Visit the small Karaim ethnographic exhibit — Trakai has been home to the Crimean Karaim community since the 14th century, and their wooden houses with three street-facing windows (for God, the family, and the Grand Duke) still line the main street.

Evening

Bus back to Vilnius by early evening; keep dinner easy in the Old Town.

Lunch
Kybynlar (Trakai) — €€
Karaim-run, the definitive spot for kibinai — hand-crimped pastries filled with minced meat, best eaten hot with a bowl of broth on the side.
Dinner
Žemaičių Ąsotis (Vilnius) — €
No-frills local pub just outside Old Town, huge portions of cepelinai and šaltibarščiai (cold beet soup with dill and boiled egg), cheap and unpretentious.
Vilnius ↔ Trakai: bus ~35 min, ~€2 each way. Trains also run hourly (~25 min).
Day 4 — On to KaunasBase: Kaunas
Kaunas Old Town square with Town Hall

Morning

LTG Link train Vilnius→Kaunas (~1h05, hourly, ~€10). Check into the hotel, then walk Kaunas Old Town: the Town Hall ("White Swan"), Kaunas Castle ruins at the river confluence, and Vytautas the Great Church.

Afternoon

Walk the 1.6km Laisvės Alėja pedestrian boulevard into Naujamiestis, the heart of Kaunas's UNESCO-listed interwar modernist architecture — over 1,500 buildings from the 1918–1940 period when Kaunas was Lithuania's temporary capital. Pick up the rental car here (Sixt/Europcar in town or at Kaunas Airport).

Evening

Hunt Kaunas's famous street art in Žaliakalnis and around the Old Town — look for the recurring funky cat motif that's become a city mascot — before dinner.

Lunch
Spurgynė (Laisvės Alėja) — €
Retro Soviet-era doughnut café — sweet or savory spurgos, a only-in-Kaunas quick bite mid-walk.
Dinner
Uoksas — €€€
One of the Baltics' most talked-about kitchens, modern technique applied to Lithuanian ingredients — smoked fish, foraged mushrooms, rye. A genuine step up from the traveling-tavern circuit.
Vilnius → Kaunas: train, ~1h05, hourly. Pick up hire car in Kaunas for the rest of the trip.
Day 5 — To the coastBase: Nida
Evening in the port city of Klaipėda

Morning

Drive Kaunas → Klaipėda (~2h). Stroll Klaipėda's small half-timbered Old Town and Theatre Square, where Hitler gave his 1939 annexation speech — now marked by the Ann statue and a fountain.

Afternoon

Load the car onto the Smiltynė car ferry (every 20–30 min in season, ~15 min crossing) — the only way onto the Curonian Spit from the Lithuanian mainland. Pay the Neringa National Park vehicle fee at the Alksnynė checkpoint, then drive down the Spit (~45 min) to Nida, watching pine forest give way to the first dune views.

Evening

Check in, then walk straight to the Parnidis Dune for sunset over the Curonian Lagoon — one of the best light shows in the Baltics.

Lunch
Momo Grill or Meridianas (Klaipėda) — €€
Meridianas is a restaurant built into a moored sailing ship on the Danė river — fresh Baltic fish, harbour views, good stop before the ferry.
Dinner
Tik pas Joną ("Only at Jonas'") — €€
Nida's most established smokehouse-restaurant — smoked eel, bream, and bass straight from the local smoker, the Spit's defining dish.
Klaipėda ↔ Smiltynė car ferry: ~15 min, ~€23 return for a car with passengers. Smiltynė → Nida: ~45 min drive.
Day 6 — Dunes & the SpitBase: Nida
View over the Dead Dunes from Parnidis Dune on the Curonian Spit Aerial view of Nida village between the lagoon and the dunes

Morning

Climb the Parnidis Dune sundial for daylight views over the "Dead Dunes" — a lunar, treeless expanse of drifting sand that swallowed several villages in the 19th century. Nearby: the Thomas Mann Memorial House, the writer's modest 1930 summer cottage.

Afternoon

Walk or cycle Nida village — the wooden fishermen's houses with carved weathervane crests (each once marked a family's fishing rights on the lagoon), the small Amber Gallery-Museum, and the yacht marina.

Evening

Second dinner on the Spit — go all-fish this time.

Lunch
Nida market smoked fish — €
Buy straight from a smokehouse stall near the harbour and eat on a bench looking at the lagoon — the local way to do lunch here.
Dinner
Fisheria — €€
All-fish menu in the centre of Nida; the smoked mackerel pâté is the dish to order.
Day 7 — Back to VilniusBase: Vilnius
Plate of cepelinai, Lithuanian potato dumplings

Morning

One last dune walk or a slow coffee by the lagoon before the drive. Ferry back across at Smiltynė, then the long haul to Vilnius (~4h driving, or split it with a lunch stop in Kaunas, adding ~30 min).

Afternoon

Drop the rental car at Vilnius Airport (or a downtown branch if returning the next morning suits your flight time better) and taxi back into the Old Town for one last night.

Evening

Slow last evening — no agenda beyond a good final dinner.

Lunch
Bernelių Užeiga (Kaunas, en route) — €€
Traditional stopover lunch if splitting the drive — cepelinai and šaltibarščiai in a rustic dining room.
Dinner
Lokys — €€
Medieval stone cellar in Old Town Vilnius, game-heavy menu (wild boar, venison) in a candlelit setting — a fitting last-night atmosphere.
Nida → Vilnius: ~4h driving including the ferry crossing; add ~30 min for a Kaunas lunch stop.
Day 8 — Fly homeBase: Vilnius

Morning

Free morning — the Halė covered market for last-minute amber, honey, and rye bread; or a final coffee on Pilies gatvė.

Afternoon

SAS direct flight VNO→CPH, home by early evening.

4Where you sleep

Three bases, all boutique, all walkable to what matters.

Shakespeare Boutique Hotel — Vilnius (4 nights)

~€110–120/night for two

A 17th-century palace two minutes from Cathedral Square, each room named for a writer and furnished with antiques and curated books. Old Town location covers days 1–3 and the return night 7.

Daugirdas Old City Hotel — Kaunas (1 night)

~€100/night for two

4★, right on Kaunas Old Town square — walk to the castle, the cathedral, and Laisvės Alėja without needing the car yet.

Vila Kastytis — Nida (2 nights)

~€90–100/night for two

Small, family-run guesthouse a short walk from the harbour and the Parnidis Dune trailhead — private parking for the hire car, quiet residential Nida street.

5Dinner highlights

If you only remember six meals from the week, make it these.

Nineteen18
€€€€ · ~€110pp
Order: the full 10-course tasting menu. Vilnius's Michelin star, Baltic ingredients, book ahead.
Uoksas
€€€ · ~€45pp
Order: the tasting plate of smoked fish and foraged mushroom courses. Kaunas's best kitchen, worth the detour from Old Town.
Tik pas Joną
€€ · ~€20pp
Order: smoked eel, whole, with dark rye and butter. The Curonian Spit's defining dish, best eaten at a picnic table.
Etno Dvaras
€€ · ~€15pp
Order: cepelinai su spirgučiais (potato dumplings, bacon-sour cream sauce). The reliable, everywhere-in-Lithuania classic done properly.
Kybynlar
€€ · ~€12pp
Order: kibinai with minced lamb filling, straight out of the oven. Trakai's Karaim specialty, right by the castle.
Lokys
€€ · ~€25pp
Order: wild boar stew. Medieval cellar atmosphere for a last night in Vilnius.

6Budget breakdown

Honest ballpark for two, mid-range comfortable, shoulder season.

ItemDetailCost (2 people)
FlightsSAS direct CPH↔VNO, economy€400
Hotels4 nights Vilnius + 1 Kaunas + 2 Nida€750
Car hire4 days, compact, incl. basic insurance€180
FuelKaunas–Klaipėda–Nida–Vilnius loop€60
Ferry & park feeSmiltynė car ferry return + Neringa vehicle fee€40
Food — casual meals~13 lunches/dinners across the week€520
Food — splurge dinnerNineteen18 tasting menu for two€220
Activities & entriesGediminas Tower, KGB Museum, Trakai Castle, Kaunas museums€140
Total~€2,310

7Practical notes

Currency
Euro (€). Cards accepted almost everywhere; carry some cash for smokehouses, markets, and rural Curonian Spit stalls.
Plug & power
Type C/F, 230V — identical to Denmark, no adapter needed.
Language
Lithuanian is the official language; English is widely understood in Vilnius, Kaunas and Klaipėda, especially among younger people and in tourism.
Safety / scam note
Lithuania is one of the safer countries in Europe — the one real risk is unofficial taxi touts at Vilnius Airport who skip the meter and overcharge. Use Bolt or a marked taxi rank instead.
Packing tip
Shoulder-season Baltic weather swings — pack layers and a light rain shell. Old Town cobbles favour comfortable shoes over anything with a heel; the dunes get windy even on sunny days.
Driving
Right-hand traffic, same as Denmark. Winter tyres/lights rules don't apply in May/September. Dipped headlights required at all times, year-round.